Discovering Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes: a practical guide

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is one of the most varied regions of France: extinct volcanoes, lakes, gorges and caves, historic cities such as Lyon, and the highest peaks in the Alps. It offers as much nature as heritage.

This practical guide helps you choose your stops and organise your trip. Underlined site names link to their detailed pages.

Understanding the region in a few minutes

The region was born from the merger of Auvergne and Rhône-Alpes. It has twelve départements, and is discovered by large areas: volcanic Auvergne, with the Le Puy de Dôme, the Le Lac Pavin and the Plomb du Cantal; the Rhône valley and the Ardèche, with their gorges and caves; the Alps, from Savoie to Haute-Savoie; the Vercors, Chartreuse and Dauphiné; and the Lyon area.

Each area has its own atmosphere. Auvergne is a land of middle mountains, with plateaux, glacial valleys and basalt villages such as Salers. The Alps bring together peaks, passes and lakes, such as Lac d'Annecy. The Rhône and the Ardèche are more southern, with garrigue scrub and gorge landscapes.

For a trip of a few days, it is better to choose one area: for example the Ardèche and Drôme, the lakes of Annecy and Le Bourget, or the volcanoes of Auvergne.

Key tips
  • Distances are long between Auvergne and the Alps: allow three to four hours' drive.
  • Mountain roads are slow and sometimes closed in winter.
  • For the high mountains, always check the weather.

Culture, history and heritage

Lyon, a World Heritage city of art and history, is the region's great cultural centre, with its historic site, museums such as the history museum and its traboules (covered passageways). Vienne and the Saint-Romain-en-Gal site evoke Roman times.

Romanesque art is very present in Auvergne, with its volcanic-stone churches, and the towns of Le Puy en Velay, Saint-Flour and Lavaudieu with its cloister. Castles are numerous: Château d'Annecy, Château de Crussol, Château de Murol, Château de Chazeron, Château de Rochebaron.

The region also has a rich industrial and scientific heritage: Musée de la Coutellerie de Thiers, L'Aventure Michelin, Vulcania. Spa towns such as Vichy and Aix-les-Bains recall the tradition of taking the waters. Several sites evoke memory, such as the Mémorial des enfants d'Izieu.

Key tips
  • Lyon is explored on foot, by metro and by funicular.
  • For Auvergne castles, check opening days: many are seasonal.
  • Lyon's museums are often closed one day a week.

Food and local produce

The region's table is rich and varied. In Lyon, bouchons serve quenelles, charcuterie and tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe). Auvergne is famous for its cheeses: Cantal, Salers, Saint-Nectaire, Fourme d'Ambert and Bleu d'Auvergne, as well as for its Puy green lentils and charcuterie.

Savoie and Haute-Savoie add fondue, raclette, tartiflette, Reblochon and Savoie wines. The Ardèche and Drôme offer chestnuts, honey, nougat and olive products. Wines include Beaujolais, Côtes-du-Rhône, Savoie wines and those of the Bugey.

Markets and farms are good places to taste local products. Many producers offer visits and tastings, especially in Auvergne and Savoie.

Key tips
  • Book good restaurants in Lyon in advance.
  • In the mountains, high-altitude restaurants fill up quickly in summer.
  • For cheeses, ask the producer for advice.

Nature and wide open spaces

The region offers exceptional natural landscapes. The Auvergne volcanoes form a setting of puys and crater lakes, such as the Le Lac Pavin and the Les Roches Tuilière et de Sanadoire. Waterfalls are numerous: Cascade de Queureuilh, Cascade de la Baume and the La cascade du Ray-Pic.

The Ardèche and Drôme have the Les gorges du Chassezac, the Gorges de la Beaume, the Bois de Paiolive and large caves: Aven d'Orgnac, Aven Grotte de Marzal, Grottes préhistoriques de Soyons. The Vercors and Chartreuse have the Le Mont Aiguille, the Gorges de la Bourne (Les Grands Goulets) and the Grottes de Choranche.

In the Alps, lakes are one of the great pleasures of summer: Lac d'Annecy, Lac d'Aiguebelette, Lac de la Muzelle, Le Lac vert (Passy), Lac Blanc (Aiguilles Rouges). The legendary passes, such as the Col du Galibier, the Col de l'Iseran and the Col de la Croix de Fer, offer high-mountain landscapes.

Key tips
  • For gorges and caves, bring suitable shoes.
  • At altitude, the weather changes quickly: pack warm clothes.
  • Passes are closed in winter: check before you go.

When to go and how to plan

Spring and autumn are pleasant for Auvergne, the gorges and the towns. Summer is the best season for the high mountains and lakes, but also the busiest. Winter is the season for winter sports, with many resorts in the Alps, Chartreuse, Vercors and the Massif Central.

A car is useful for exploring Auvergne, the Ardèche and Drôme, where public transport is limited. Big cities such as Lyon, Grenoble, Annecy and Clermont-Ferrand are well served by train. Mountain roads are winding and sometimes closed in winter.

A week's trip can combine two areas: for example the Auvergne volcanoes then the Ardèche, or Lyon then the lakes of Annecy and Le Bourget. Avoid changing base too often: roads are slower than they look.

Key tips
  • Book mountain accommodation in advance in summer.
  • Check road conditions in winter, especially at altitude.
  • Start hikes early: afternoon storms are frequent.

Going further

Find all the sites of the region on the page Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, or explore a département:

Our itineraries for this region

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